"Eat a Peach," by David Chang

Longtime readers of this blog may remember that I have posted about quite a few chef/restaurant memoirs. I love the world of restaurants! But for the past eight months, because of the coronavirus pandemic, I have been in strict stay-at-home mode, and have not eaten at any restaurants; gradually, I have found myself much less interested in such memoirs. Every time I saw a mention of, or a review of, David Chang’s new memoir, “Eat a Peach” (Clarkson Potter, 2020), I fleetingly considered reading it, but just couldn’t sustain interest. But recently I went ahead and bought it, and as I started reading it, I was inhaled back into the restaurant world. Chang is the enormously successful founder of Momofuku in New York, along with several ensuing restaurants there and elsewhere around the country and world. He has won numerous awards, including six James Beard Awards and several Michelin stars. Of course I had heard about Momofuku, a refined, original noodle place that became incredibly popular, although unfortunately I have never eaten there. I loved hearing the backstories, and the author’s takes on other chefs, critics, and related people and events in the food world. But what adds another dimension to this memoir is Chang’s description of his own struggles with depression and bipolarity, along with his blend of confidence and insecurity. He is candid about his own bad behaviors as well, including much screaming at workers in his restaurants. Although readers can never be sure if candor is sincere, or an attempt to win sympathy and to pre-empt criticism, I believed Chang, and felt for him. He also writes of his own blind spots about the restaurant world, and how it took him too long to recognize sexism and other problematic issues in that world. In any case, this fascinating memoir drew me back to the world of restaurants, and now I am sadder than ever that the pandemic has been so devastating for restaurants. And on a selfish personal note: I remember, pre-COVID, when I was sometimes sorry that I couldn’t try ALL the wonderful restaurants I read and heard about (although I did try a good many!); now I am sorry that I can’t try ANY of them for the foreseeable future.